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by Alice-Claudia Gherman | Photos: Breguet Archive
Abraham-Louis Breguet, the man who started it all
The
history of the Breguet brand began in the Swiss city of Neuchâtel, located on
the northern shore of the lake bearing the same name. It was here, in 1747,
that Abraham-Louis Breguet was born. As a teenager, he left his hometown to
complete his apprenticeship in watchmaking in Versailles and Paris. In 1775, he
opened his own workshop on the Quai de l'Horloge, on the Île de la Cité in
Paris. The Abbé Marie introduced him to the French court, whose members soon
became some of his most loyal clients. The dark days of the French Revolution
forced Breguet to return to his native Switzerland in 1793, though only for a
brief period. In 1795, he returned to Paris, where he found a renewed clientele
that included members of Napoleon’s army and influential figures of the era.
A
name synonymous with innovation – Breguet
The
early years of this brilliant watchmaker were marked by inventions that
continue to influence the watchmaking industry to this day. Abraham-Louis
Breguet’s name is inseparably linked to the Tourbillon, developed in 1801 as a
practical solution to counteract the effects of gravity on timekeeping
precision. In 1780, Breguet also created the world’s first self-winding watch,
known as the Perpétuelle, followed by the first wristwatch ever made in 1810:
the famous Breguet no. 2639, designed for Caroline Bonaparte, Queen of Naples
and Sicily. Among his many innovations was the “parachute” system, invented in
1790, considered the ancestor of modern anti-shock devices and designed to make
watches significantly less fragile. In 1795, he introduced the Breguet overcoil
hairspring, still widely used in contemporary watchmaking. Four years later, in
1799, he created the Breguet “Montre à Tact”, also known as the “watch for the
blind”, which allowed the wearer to tell the time by touch alone. These
extraordinary pieces were true jewels, adorned with enamel, pearls, and
diamonds.
„Montre à Tact” Breguet
Breguet,
a journey through time and history
Queen
Marie Antoinette of France was one of Abraham-Louis Breguet’s most devoted
patrons, supporting his watchmaking workshop on the Quai de l’Horloge in the
heart of Paris. She owned several of the master watchmaker’s creations and
enthusiastically recommended his work throughout the kingdom and among the
distinguished guests of the French court. The French Revolution and the tragic
execution of Marie Antoinette deprived the queen of seeing completed one of
Breguet’s most remarkable creations: the legendary Breguet no. 160 “Marie
Antoinette”. Considered one of the most precious watches ever created, it
remains the ultimate masterpiece of the master watchmaker. Commissioned by the
Swedish Count Axel von Fersen, believed to have been the queen’s lover, the watch
was designed as an exceptionally refined and sophisticated piece, incorporating
every horological innovation available at the time.
Breguet No. 160 "Marie Antoinette", one of the most precious watches ever made
Throughout history, many other renowned figures commissioned or received Breguet watches. In April 1798, Napoleon Bonaparte purchased three representative Breguet creations, including the repeater watch no. 34, the watch no. 178, and the Perpétuelle no. 216. Between 1808 and 1814, Caroline Murat, Napoleon’s youngest sister, became A.-L. Breguet’s most important client, acquiring no fewer than 34 watches and clocks. The fame of Breguet also reached Constantinople, where Ottoman Sultan Selim III purchased two Breguet timepieces. Tsar Alexander I of Russia was equally captivated by the master watchmaker’s creations, ordering several pieces for himself while encouraging the expansion of Breguet’s reputation throughout Russia.
The
Breguet Legacy – A Journey Through France, Great Britain and Switzerland
In
September 1823, the renowned watchmaker A.-L. Breguet passed away. The business
was taken over by his only son and partner, Antoine-Louis Breguet, who
continued his father’s work until retiring in 1833. The company was then
entrusted to his son, Louis-Clément Breguet, a passionate advocate of
electricity who brought new dynamism to the Maison, recognizing that the watch
industry was beginning to address a broader audience. This marked the beginning
of large-scale production. However, Louis-Clément Breguet’s fascination with
electricity gradually distanced him from traditional watchmaking. Soon, the
direct heirs of the prestigious Breguet name shifted their attention toward
other fields such as electricity, scientific instruments, and aviation.
In
1870, Louis-Clément Breguet sold the Paris-based watchmaking business to his
workshop manager, Edward Brown of Clerkenwell. The Brown family owned the
company for an entire century, from 1870 to 1970, fully aware of the historical
importance of Breguet and the legacy it embodied. With remarkable dedication,
Brown and his descendants preserved the spirit and traditions of the Maison
despite numerous economic crises, challenges, and two world wars. After 1970,
ownership of Breguet changed hands several times.
In 1987, Breguet was acquired by Investcorp, which later established Groupe Horloger Breguet (GHB) in 1991. The year 1999 marked a new era for the House of Breguet, when it became part of the Swatch Group. Under the vision of Nicolas G. Hayek, and thanks to major human and financial investments, Breguet regained its former prestige and brilliance. Following his passing in 2010, his nephew Marc A. Hayek assumed leadership of this jewel of the watchmaking world. In 2025, the House of Breguet celebrated its 250th anniversary with a remarkable series of launches unveiled successively in Paris, Shanghai, New York, Geneva, London, Seoul, Tokyo, and Dubai.
Breguet – Ultra-refined luxury watches and masterpieces of horological technology
Crafted
in red, rose, or white gold, as well as platinum, adorned with diamonds,
sapphires, and other precious stones, Breguet watches continue to reign at the
pinnacle of luxury watchmaking. Whether minimalist or highly complicated, each
creation is both a jewel designed to measure time and a masterpiece of
technical precision.
Classique Collection – legible, precise, refined watches
The modern interpretation of the Classique collection was launched in 1980, alongside the revival of the Breguet brand and under the direction of master watchmakers such as Daniel Roth. Whether in ultra-thin versions or models featuring numerous complications, the eleven watches in this collection faithfully reflect the technical rigor, artistry, and traditional values of the House of Breguet. Five of these models were produced in limited editions, making them highly coveted by collectors of fine horology. Every watch within the Classique collection represents a contemporary reinterpretation of A.-L. Breguet’s original creations. The collection is distinguished by iconic visual and technical signatures of the Maison: hand-guilloché dials, fluted case bands, Breguet numerals, and the famous open-tipped “apple” hands, also known as Breguet hands. The latest addition to the collection, the Classique Souscription 2025, was created to celebrate Breguet’s 250th anniversary in Paris. This single-hand wristwatch features a case crafted from Breguet’s newly developed gold alloy, inspired by the founder’s historic subscription pocket watches.
Type
XX – The Watch of the French Air Force
Originally
developed in the 1950s for the French Air Force, the first Type XX accompanied
an important chapter in aviation history. Today, it remains part of the Breguet
collections and is available in both civilian and military-inspired
versions.The Type XX Chronograph 2075 is the newest addition to the line,
unveiled in New York to celebrate 250 years of Breguet watchmaking and to pay
tribute to the Maison’s rich aeronautical heritage. It is offered in two
anniversary editions: one featuring a black anodized aluminum dial, and
another, limited to just 250 pieces, with a solid silver dial. With a diameter
of 38.3 mm and a height of 13.2 mm, both models draw direct inspiration from a
historic Type XX reference dating back to 1955.
The
Heritage Collection: atypical yet recognizable Breguet shapes
Created
in 1998, the Breguet Heritage watch collection stands out through its elegant
and unconventional design, defined primarily by its distinctive curved
tonneau-shaped case and classic details that preserve the spirit of founder
Abraham-Louis Breguet.
Breguet
Tradition Collection, the emblem of the House of Breguet
The
Breguet Tradition Collection was introduced in 2005 with the launch of the 7027
model. With its avant-garde aesthetic, which has since become its signature,
the Tradition collection continues to captivate through its timeless appeal.
Inspired by the pure design principles of Breguet, it combines boldness and
innovation in fine watchmaking, embodying a unique alchemy where heritage,
technological progress, and contemporary vision meet. In 2025, as Breguet
celebrated 250 years of existence, the Tradition collection was enriched with
the Tradition Seconde Rétrograde 7035 model, unveiled in Shanghai.
The
Marine Collection, a tribute to A.-L. Breguet
The
Breguet Marine collection was officially launched in 1990 as a tribute to the
Maison’s historical heritage and to the appointment of Abraham-Louis Breguet as
watchmaker to the French Royal Navy by King Louis XVIII in 1815. The collection
was relaunched in 2004, while a new generation of Breguet Marine timepieces was
introduced in 2017.
Several
details of the Marine watches evoke the maritime world, such as the seconds
hand, whose counterweight features a nautical signal flag bearing the Breguet
initials. The crown of the 40 mm model is framed by wave-inspired decorations.
On the reverse side, a sapphire crystal caseback reveals the automatic movement
and an oscillating weight reminiscent of a ship’s rudder.
Reine
de Naples, the line dedicated to women
This collection is a free reinterpretation of the very first watch designed to be worn on the wrist, originally created by A.-L. Breguet for Caroline Murat. The pieces in this collection are a refined expression of elegance and precision. The line includes 11 women’s watches crafted in 18K gold and adorned with diamonds, sapphires, or pearls, depending on the model. The Reine de Naples 9915, released in a limited edition of only 28 pieces, was launched to celebrate Valentine’s Day in 2025.
Expérimentale
I, an avant-garde timepiece
Crafted
in gold, the Breguet Expérimentale I was created in 2025 and unveiled later
that same year to mark the 250th anniversary of the Maison. The watch is
equipped with the first high-frequency 10Hz tourbillon featuring a magnetic
escapement capable of transmitting constant force to the balance wheel. By
combining a tourbillon, a constant-force escapement, and controlled magnetism,
this innovative architecture was designed to enhance stability and precision,
earning the Expérimentale I certification from the House of Breguet in the
Scientific category.
