by  Alice Claudia Gherman, photo archive Floris London

Floris is Britain’s oldest family-owned perfumery and one of the oldest perfume houses in the world. Its fragrances have a distinctive signature, synonymous with British culture.

The story of Floris London began on a misty morning in 1730, when Juan Famenias Floris, originally from the island of Menorca, opened a small shop with his wife, Elizabeth, at 89 Jermyn Street, in the heart of London’s St James’s district. Juan brought with him not only memories of Mediterranean fragrances, but also the skill to transform aromatic plants into scented waters, soaps and grooming products. In a London defined by fog, horses and rain-darkened stone, the little Floris boutique began offering something rare and distinctive: delicate, Mediterranean-inspired fragrances presented with quintessentially British elegance.


Floris London: Supplier to the Royal Household

Over time, the shop became more than a place to buy perfume. It grew into a meeting place for London’s aristocrats, artists and leading figures. Each bottle held a story: a journey, a memory, a desire, or the discreet signature of the person who wore it. Thus began the story of Floris London: a tale of family, tradition and the art of turning a scent into a memory. The house’s earliest documented fragrance was Limes - a fresh and bright citrus eau de toilette - created in 1790 by founder Juan Famenias Floris. Other historic fragrances followed, including White Rose (1800), Night Scented Jasmine (1806), Red Rose (1807), Stephanotis (1816), Bouquet de la Reine (1860), Sandalwood (1870), Special No. 127 (1890) and Rose Geranium (1890). A defining moment came in 1820, when Floris was granted a Royal Warrant to supply fragrance and grooming products to the Royal Household, specifically to King George IV. This recognition strengthened the brand’s reputation among the British elite and was the first Royal Warrant awarded to Floris London. Over the years, the house has held several further Royal Warrants. Today, it holds the warrant of His Majesty King Charles III as ‘Manufacturers of Toilet Preparations to HM The King’.

No. 89: James Bond’s Fragrance and the Floris London Signature

Over the years, a number of iconic figures have become loyal customers of the house. Florence Nightingale wrote to the Floris family to thank them for their ‘beautifully scented bouquets’; Sir Winston Churchill regularly bought Special No. 127; Ian Fleming wore the iconic No. 89 and Oscar Wilde used to spray Malmaison - a carnation based fragrance - on the green carnation attached on his lapel. And Speaking of No. 89, it is the signature fragrance of Floris London.

No. 89 was created by Michael Bodenham, a member of the family’s seventh generation, in ‘The Mine’, the basement of the building at 89 Jermyn Street, hence its name. The fragrance was launched in 1951. ‘The fragrance itself is so distinctive, a British bouquet of rose, geranium and lavender, resting on deep, velvety woody notes at the base. Creamy sandalwood envelops it in a particular kind of elegance, while top notes of bergamot and petitgrain give it a citrusy, green edge,’ explains Roberta Ion, a Romanian perfumer who has worked for Floris London since 2023.

Created for men, though equally suitable for women who prefer fragrances with a subtly masculine and classic character, No. 89 became famous also thanks to its association with the world of 007: the charismatic, debonair James Bond, and his creator, Ian Fleming, a great admirer of the Floris house. Beyond its legendary aura, No. 89’s reputation is firmly rooted in its status as one of the house’s signature fragrances and its association with British masculine elegance. But let us return to Floris London as a whole.

Centuries-Old Formulas, a Perpetual Source of Inspiration

‘Floris is one of the oldest perfumeries in the world, but what sets it apart, in my view, is that it remains family-owned, now in its eighth and ninth generations. The family’s day-to-day involvement means that its heritage is a living commitment to creativity, craftsmanship and quality, not simply a distant reference to the past,’ Romanian perfumer Roberta Ion explains.

‘To this day, the Floris archives contain centuries-old formulas that provide a constant source of inspiration. I’ve had the privilege of reading and exploring the formula books from the archive, and they show how tradition and innovation have always gone hand in hand at Floris: the birth of modern perfumery, the addition of new raw materials to the creative palette, and the development and reformulation of fragrances over the decades, which allow the fashions and tastes of successive generations of Floris customers to come to life. The Floris Signature Collection celebrates iconic formulas that have stood the test of time, while the Private Collection offers modern interpretations of fragrance.’

A Good Perfume Doesn’t Shout Its Quality; It Whispers It Softly

What distinguishes Floris London is not only the creativity and craftsmanship of the perfumers who have shaped the house over the generations, but also its quiet way of inspiring customer loyalty, by preserving its quality and style while adapting to the expectations of new generations. ‘Expertise, quality and authenticity are what set Floris London apart in the fragrance market. Knowledge built over almost three centuries, consistent standards that keep customers coming back, and the fact that the company remains family-owned all place Floris in a unique position in the world of luxury perfumery,’ says Roberta Ion. For the perfumer, British luxury is, above all, about quality, attention to detail and understated elegance. ‘When it comes to fragrance, it should whisper, not shout. The consistency in our customer service and the quality of our products, and taking the time to understand our customers’ tastes - all of these build the loyalty they feel towards the brand.’

Exclusivity and Luxury, Away from the Madding Crowd

 What does a Floris London customer really seek? Beyond excellence and exceptional quality, there is a desire for exclusivity, the feeling of wearing a fragrance that is unique, almost impossible to replicate, and entirely one’s own. A scent as distinctive as the world of Floris itself. Because the fragrance is more than a scent: it is an expression of personality, a subtle imprint that lingers in the memories of others.

At the heart of Floris London lies the Perfumery, a private room behind the navy-blue doors at the back of the boutique at 89 Jermyn Street. Here, clients seeking a bespoke fragrance encounter both a museum and a fully functioning perfumery, the place where Floris’s creative process begins. The room houses a collection of artefacts, ledgers and formula books dating back to the house’s beginnings in the eighteenth century. ‘In this space, away from the bustle of Piccadilly, we welcome clients every day as they embark on a journey to find their perfect fragrance. They are looking for authenticity, something personal and something new. That is why we are seeing growing interest in our Bespoke Fragrance Experiences. After all, what could be more unique than a perfume created especially for you?

One of the Floris perfumers then guides the client through a one-to-one consultation and creates a bespoke fragrance, recording the formula in our books. This is not an experience that can be scaled up. It is a craft: each fragrance is blended on the spot, just as it was in the past, using imperial measurements and antique glassware. The fragrance created during the consultation becomes the client’s olfactory legacy, a formula that they, and generations to come, can order again,’ says Roberta Ion.

For fragrance enthusiasts seeking a more in-depth experience, Floris offers Fragrance Design appointments. Inspired by the way fragrances are developed within the industry, the process involves three separate consultations, guided by a specific brief. After each appointment, clients take home different formulas to assess in their own time. The perfumers then record the two finalised formulas - perhaps one fragrance for daytime and another for evening, or one for summer and one for winter. Each is created and refined in detail to capture the client’s individuality.


The Floris London Perfumery Team

Fragrance Trends Are Always Evolving

Are today’s customers different from those of a century ago, or even half a century ago? Certainly. Roberta Ion says she has noticed a shift in what people look for when choosing a fragrance: its intrinsic character, story and artistic expression are becoming more important than its ‘strength’ or ‘intensity’. Fragrance is becoming more personal, something to be enjoyed by the wearer.

 Fragrance trends are constantly evolving and, much like fashion, tend to be cyclical. Fifteen to twenty years ago, deep, smoky ingredients such as oud, tobacco and leather were popular. Over the past decade, attention has shifted towards gourmand fragrances. Even these are evolving, with comfort taking precedence over sugary sweetness. ‘A return to more subtle fragrances is welcome, and we are already seeing it among a growing number of customers. Citrus, green, airy and fresh scents are beginning to regain popularity,’ says Roberta Ion.

How then, do today’s perfumers balance the heritage of Floris London with the need to remain relevant to a younger, increasingly discerning audience? Roberta Ion is quick to answer: ‘We have also noticed that younger audiences today tend to be better informed. They are passionate about fragrance and about discovering notes and want to learn about the art and history of perfumery. We believe consistency in quality and service is essential. Fragrance is such a personal and emotional experience that it is important for a brand to be trusted. These are timeless standards appreciated by people of all ages. We believe younger customers also value Floris’s independent, authentic character and the depth of our expertise.’

‘Expertise, quality and authenticity are what set Floris apart and place it in a unique position in the world of luxury perfumery.’

Purple Mémoire or Celest Eau de Parfum?

Roberta Ion joined Floris London in 2023 and has already contributed to the creation of two fragrances: Purple Mémoire in 2025 and Celest Eau de Parfum in 2026. Two distinctive creations, each with its own story. Roberta shared a little of what lies behind them, lifting the veil on two of the newest fragrances in the Floris London collection. ‘The creative process at Floris is incredibly collaborative. We are a team of three perfumers, led by Director of Perfumery Edward Bodenham, a member of the Floris family’s ninth generation. We each contribute with ideas, work on formulas and evaluate them together.

Purple Mémoire was inspired by Edward’s great-great-grandmother, Mary Anne Floris, and the home she created in a place the family called Dear Old Ivy Lodge. To this day, she remains a source of inspiration for us all. Mary Anne Floris married a gentleman named James R. D. Bodenham, moved to the “country” (now Chiswick) and had thirteen children, all while helping to carry on the family business. We looked through family albums and letters that paint a beautiful picture of the family home, its residents and its garden.

The fragrance is a modern interpretation of lavender. It opens with notes that evoke the garden, then develops into a warm, ambery, gourmand blend of vanilla, cocoa and tonka bean - a nod to the comforting aromas we imagine filling the air when the whole family gathered around the kitchen table.

Celest is a modern fragrance inspired by the origins of perfumery itself. The word “perfume” comes from the Latin per fumum, meaning “through smoke”, a reference to the time when people burned incense and watched the smoke rise towards the heavens, like a message sent to the divine.

We decided to take these sacred balsamic notes and pair them with a much-loved ingredient in perfumery that is still cultivated in the United Kingdom: English chamomile. Unlike other varieties, English chamomile has a dry, fruity, almost apple-like scent, which complements the honey and davana notes at the heart of the fragrance.

‘Celest celebrates the ethereal space between deep balsamic notes and radiant light, rising like a veil in the warmth of the sun.’

‘With eyes sparkling with delight’

Creating a new fragrance for Floris London is an art that unfolds over time, sometimes taking two to three years. The journey always begins in the Perfumery, where inspiration may come from the house’s formula books, from treasured artefacts, or from the discovery of new raw materials under evaluation. Innovation is central to Floris, yet the house’s perfumers remain devoted to preserving the brand’s timeless DNA.  And above all, every fragrance and every product is entrusted to the judgement of the Floris family. They are the guardians of the House’s heritage and of the quality standards their clients have come to recognise. ‘It’s difficult to put it into words, but after countless iterations, trials and refinements, the composition that embodies Floris always makes itself known. There is a moment when everyone’s eyes sparkle with delight. No words are needed. We simply smell the fragrance in silence, and everyone knows it’s the one,’ says Roberta Ion.

She loved mathematics, but the art of perfumery won her heart

For Roberta Ion, fragrance has always been woven into the fabric of her life, although she did not realise it at first. ‘I loved mathematics and the sciences, but I also had a deeply creative side. The walk to school always took me twenty minutes. However, the journey home took twice as long, because I would stop to smell the flowers, the plants and everything around me. That was how I decided to study MSc Cosmetic Science at the University of the Arts London, where I was fortunate to study perfumery with one of the most inspiring women I have ever met: perfumer Marianne Martin. To this day, I return to the university each year as an associate lecturer in perfumery. After graduating, I worked in the technical and regulatory side of perfumery, focusing on natural raw materials and product safety. The moment that truly changed my life was joining Floris in 2023 and being welcomed into this extraordinary family business, with its remarkable heritage. I discovered an entirely new palette, new raw materials and a renewed appreciation for the artistry of perfumery.

 Nothing compares to creating a fragrance for the person standing before you, to discovering their tastes, to sensing their enthusiasm related to the fragrance from their smallest of reactions, and to translating their personality and memories into a real fragrance’, says Roberta Ion enthusiastically. The Romanian perfumer continues to carry the tradition of Floris London forward, alongside her fellow perfumers.